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Daruma Ichi - Daruma Markets in Japan (1)
だるま市, ダルマ市 ― お正月散歩



New Year is the season for many Daruma Markets all over Japan, mostly around the Kanto area. It seems everybody wants to make sure the coming year brings him/her a little more good luck and it takes a Daruma doll without eyes to help with that big task.
This story will give you an overview of the many events taking place around the New Year Time in Japan. The different tpyes of Daruma dolls will be explained in their own stories. The material for this subject is just overwhelming. Checking in English you find more than 113 entires for Daruma Markets, 32 for Daruma Fairs.
Checking in Japanese for だるま市 you find 3050 (!) entries, for ダルマ市 there are 638 and for 達磨市 you find 182. For だるま祭りwe have more than 200 entries. This only reflects the different ways of spelling DARUMA with the complicated Japanese writing system.

First I would like to give you a rendering of my favorite Japanese HP about this subject, a survey of the most important markets by Mr. Ogawa, then I carry on from there. Thank you so much, Mr. Ogawa!
お正月はだるま市のシーズンですね。インタネットでもたくさんのHPがありますが、まず小川さんのHPの簡単英語版を紹介します。小川さんありがとう!
http://hamadayori.hp.infoseek.co.jp/0103/daruma.html


A Daruma Market is held at many Buddhst temples and Shinto shrines at their respecitve festival days (ennichi縁日), but mostly during the New Year season. Most Daruma Markets are held in Northern and Central Japan with Tokyo at the center, but in Western Japan there are only a few. The markets are scheduled one after another to permit the vendors to move from one to the next. At most temples and shrines everywhere in Japan you can get a papermachee Daruma doll during the first three days of the New Year.


Here is a list of Daruma Markets given by Mr. Mc Farland, arranged by date.



JANUARY

1-3  Many Temples and Shrines throughout Japan
1-15  Toyokawa Inari Shrine Festival, Aichi Pref.
6   First New Year's Fair, Gyooda, Saitama Pref.
6-7  Shoorin-zan, Takasaki and Sawa, Gunma Pref.
7-8  Shinano Kokubun-ji Festival, Ueda, Nagano Pref.
7-9  Bishamonten Shrine Fuji, Shizuoka Pref. (Old Lunar Calenedar)
8   Kiku Inari Shrine, Tano, Gunma Pref.
9   Mito, Ibaragi Pref.
9-10  Koyasu Shrine, Hachiooji, Tokyo 10 Maebashi, Gunma Pref.
11   Kotohira Shrine Festival, Takasaki, Gunma Pref.
11  Futaba, Fukushima Pref.
11  First New Year's Fair, Shibukawa, Gunma Pref.
11  First New Year's Fair, Utsunomiya, Tochigi Pref.
11  Tokorokoma Shrine, Makabe, Ibaragi Pref.
12  Miharu, Fukushima Pref.
12  Dairoku Ten-jinja , Chigasaki Town, Kanagawa Pref.
12  Sumiyoshi Jinja Daruma Market, Aome, Tokyo
12-13  Koku-Jizoo-Festival, Chichibu, Saitama Pref.
14  Mine Shrine Festival, Katta, Miyagi Pref.
14  Hachiman Shrine Festival, Sendai, Miyagi Pref.
14-15  Candy Fair, Matsumoto, Nagano Pref.
14-15  Haguro Shrine, Fukushima City
15-16  Shimodate, Ibaragi Pref.
18  Daruma Kuyoo (Burning), Dairyuu-ji, Gifu City
21  Nishi-Arai Daishi Temple Festival, Adachi Ward, Tokyo
25  Iyoku Shrine Festival, Sawa, Gunma Pref.
28  Tokusa Fudoo Festival, Kawasaki, Kanagawa Pref.
31  First New Year's Fair, Kanuma, Tochigi Pref.

FEBRUARY

1  Goshiki Shrine, Kita-Saitama City
2  Hoorin-ji, Ukyoo, Kyoto
3-4  Setsubun Festival, Great Shrine in Koofu, Yamanashi Pref. First Sunday Daruma Festival, Okaya, Nagano Pref.
10  Konpira Shrine Festival, Iwatsuki, Saitama Pref.
11  Daruma Market, Shirakawa, Fukushima Pref.
11  Daruma Festival, Koozen-ji, Suzuka, Mie Pref.
13-14  Jizoo Festival, Koofu, Yamanashi Pref. Second Sunday Daruma Market, Shinmei Shrine, Mihara, Hiroshima Pref. Third Sunday Kiyomizu-dera Festival, Fujieda, Shizuoka Pref.
25  Monju Festival, Oosato, Saitama Pref.
28  Noda, Chiba Pref. First Day of the Horse Takenoma Inari Shrine Festival, Iwanuma, Miyagi Pref.

MARCH
3-4  Daruma Market, Jindai-ji, Choofu, Tokyo

APRIL
1-2  Ryootan-ji, Hikone, Shiga Pref.
11  Daruma Festival (Daruma-e) Daruma-ji, Ooji, Nara
19-20  Enpuku-ji, Yahata, Kyoto Pref.
21  Daruma Festival, Koozen-ji, Kamitonda, Wakayama Pref.

OCTOBER
5  Daruma Memorial Day (Daruma-ki), most Zen temples
20  Daruma Festival, Enpukuji, Yahata, Kyoto Pref.

DECEMBER
17-18  Iizumi Kannon Festival, Odawara, Kanagawa Pref.
24, 30  Yearend Fair, Nakaminato, Ibaragi Pref.
25,31  Yearend Fair, Inari Shrine, Fukushima City
26  Yearend Fair, Haga, Tochigi Pref.

Mr. Minegishi in his extensive book about Takasaki Daruma cites 25 markets in Gunma prefecture alone!
峰岸さんの本には群馬県だけでは25件のだるま市が述べています。

On the HP of Mr. Kyobashi you find more Japanese links on the internet. We will explore them in detail in Part 2 of this story. 杏橋さんのHPにもLINKがいっぱいあります。パート2で詳しく調べます。


Let us look at five of the biggest Daruma Markets. Takasaki is the biggest one of the three great Daruma Markets, the second is Jindai-ji and the third in Shirawaka. Some people say the one at the Bishamon Festival in Fuji Town is the third biggest, but never mind that. And Mihara is certainly the biggest in Western Japan.

Takasaki Shorin-zan Daruma Market 高崎少林山のだるま市
Maybe the oldest, biggest and most well-known Daruma Market is held at the famous Daruma Temple Shorin-zan in Takasaki (Shoorin-zan, Shoorinzan). The temple is located about a 15 minutes drive from Takasaki Station. (It takes about 3 hours from Tokyo by train to get there.) The temple Shorin-zan belongs to the Obaku Sect of Zen and is known as the place of origin of the Good Luck Daruma (engi Daruma 縁起だるま).
The Daruma Market is held every year at the sixth and seventh of January, the seventh is the great festival of the special rice gruel with seven vegetables, eaten on this day only (nanakusa 七草粥).
During the middle of the Edo period Mt. Asama erupted and the great famine of Tenmei followed soon. It was a hard period for the local farmers. To help eleviate their burden the head priest of the Temple Shorin-zan had the good idea to make a little papermachee doll of Daruma and sell it as a token for good luck. The first figures were representing the monk himself sitting in meditation in a realistic way, but soon they became simpler and took the round form of a silkworm cocoon. Now we know them as the "Daruma for Good Luck" (fuku daruma 福だるま) of Takasaki.
The yearly output of Daruma dolls in all of Japan is about 2 million dolls, with Takasaki as the biggest producer of about 80% of them. More than 100 shops and families in this area are busy with the production. Other areas of Daruma production are in Shirakawa and Koshigaya, but their total output is only small.
Looking at the figure above we find that one in 20 housholds in Japan posesses a Daruma doll. That is quite hard to believe. Since Daruma dolls are usually not sold in department stores and supermarkets, they must all be going through the Daruma Markets. Usually Takasaki town is extremely crowded during the Daruma Market season and the place is most busy during the night from the 6th to the 7th of January.

Climbing up the long stone stairs you come to the main hall with a statue of the Zen patriarch Daruma Daishi in his red robe, seated in meditation. All around the hall are stalls and half of them sell Daruma dolls, some sell also beckoning cats (maneki neko 招き猫) and the zodiac animal of the new year. Daruma comes in many sizes, from a tiny ball for about 3 dollars to a big one costing a fortune. But you can haggle about the prize, if you find a doll that suits you. The Daruma has no eyes painted, so you can paint one while making your wish for the New Year. (See story of Painting Eyes for Daruma.)

Have a look at the following HP for the many sizes of the Good Luck Daruma.
http://www.wind.ne.jp/sanrin/fukudaruma.html
More about the Takasaki Daruma Market.
http://www.city.takasaki.gunma.jp/English/Daruma.html
http://www.jinjapan.org/atlas/crafts/cra05.html
http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/daruma.shtml (More about Daruma)
http://www.darumaonline.com/da_text/new-market.htm
http://www.jinjapan.org/kidsweb/calendar/january/daruma.html
http://www.outdoorjapan.com/festivals-events/events-gunma.html (More about festivals in Gunma Pref.)
http://www.jinjapan.org/nipponia/nipponia8/what.html
http://www.city.takasaki.gunma.jp/kankou/daruma.htm (日本語)


Temple Jinda-ji in Tokyo 東京の深大寺
The Daruma Market is on the 3rd and 4th of May. In the temple ground, Darumas of many different colors are sold, not only red ones.

There are also Darumas with the eyes already painted in, but hidden (mekakushi Daruma 目隠しだるま). The reason for this is simpler than you think. These special Daruma come with golden eyes and to make sure the golden foil does not come off during transportation and packing, they are covered by a slip of white paper.
If you look closer, you can see that the face is painted in many different ways. For good luck the eyebrows should resemble a crane and the lip beard a tortoise. The chin beard resembles a pine tree while the belly pattern and nose come alive like bamboo and plum, to give us the three auspicious symbols (shoo-chiku-bai 松竹梅).

In the yearly magazine Nr. 11 of the Daruma Association there is an article about this Daruma Market at Jindai-ji.
だるま会報11号に深大寺のだるま市の記事もあります。
http://www.merit5.co.jp/gyosei/chofu/0202/chofu0202.html#07
You can read more about this subject in my story about Jindai-ji


Shirakawa Daruma Market 白川だるま市

Shirakawa town has been a market place since the Kamakura period and the present-day Daruma market developed from an old "Flower Market" in January; it is now held on February 11th, on the National Holiday for the Founding of the Constitution. There are more than 800 stalls, about 150.000
Daruma dolls are produced locally and about 150.000 people visit the market. Daruma dolls come in 18 different sizes, mostly with all the auspicious symbols we have just seen above at Jindai-ji. The biggest is 75 cm and the smallest 8 cm.

http://www.shirakawa.ne.jp/~menu/daruma/top.htm
Here you can see many pictures from the market in 2001.
http://www.shirakawa.ne.jp/~menu/daruma/2001/
http://www.worldvillage.org/gy/gyold/15006.html (More about Fukushima festivals)


Bishamonten Festival in Fuji 富士、毘沙門天大祭
This festival occures according to the old lunar calendar, so the date is shifting from December to February at the Temple Myoohoo-ji (Myoho-ji). Daruma dolls with a big beard are the speciality of this Daruma Market. This beard is one of the characteristics of the main deity, Bishamonten, of this temple. The road from the Yoshihara station to the temple is lined with stalls and maybe more than 500.000 people are on their feet during the three days of this festival and more than 150.000 dolls are sold.

http://www.city.fuji.shizuoka.jp/kankou_m/maturi/yondai_m.htm#bisyamon
http://taitan21.cool.ne.jp/fuji/ichiban/bishamon.htm


Daruma Market in Mihara 三原のだるま市

This is the great Daruma Market in Western Japan, in Hiroshima prefecture. The second Sunday (and Saturday) are the great days of the Shinmei Festival (神明市) at the famous Zen temple Buttsuu-ji (佛通寺) within the parc precincts of the Yahata Shrine. From Mihara Station it takes about 40 minutes to reach the temple by bus. One of the big Daruma figures is about 3.5 meters high, made from a bamboo scaffold and covered with old newspaper before coloring it all red. Mihara boasts the biggest papermachee Daruma statue of all Japan (Nippon Ichi 日本一).

http://www.tako.ne.jp/~madono/sitetop2/rokal/sinmei1.jpg
http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~moriyasu/sinmei.html

In the yearly magazine Nr. 8 of the Daruma Association there is an article about this Daruma Market in Mihara. There is also a list of Daruma Markets all over Japan.
だるま会報8号に三原神明祭りの記事もあります。日本の大規模、中規模の市情報もあります。


Now let us look at some English homepages about Daruma festivals in alphabetical order. Most will be picked up again in Part 2.


Doro Ichi, an outdoor Daruma Market in Tokyo 泥市
Doro Ichi is the name given to a special outdoor market specializing in Daruma New Year's dolls and other New Year's decorations. This special one-day market will be held in front of the Yatabe branch office of city hall on Tuesday, Dec. 28th, and should be an interesting sight even if you are not interested in actually buying any decorations for your home or apartment. If, however, you would like to pick up some unusual souvenirs to take back with you, this should be a good opportunity.
The term Doro Ichi literally means mud market and has two possible linguistic origins. One is that traditionally December was the month when dorobo (thieves, literally mud sticks) were most active. The other theory is that it had to do with the muddy roads of December and that when people went shopping on such roads, they tended to get muddy.
http://www.alientimes.org/1999/13-11december.html


Fumon-Ji Daruma Fair, Kiryuu, Gunma Pref. 普門寺だるま市、桐生
Held on the second weekend in January.
http://www.outdoorjapan.com/festivals-events/events-gunma.html
http://www.kiea.jp/Fumonji.html

Futaba Daruma Fair 双葉だるま市

Held in front of the JR Futaba Station from January 10th to 11th, this lively event is over 300 years old. A large Daruma is paraded through the streets as a symbol of good luck and prosperity. Various other events will also be taking place.
http://www.worldvillage.org/gy/gyold/14007.html

Iizumi Kannon Daruma Fair 飯泉観音だるま市
This is a magnificent Daruma Doll fair, which has over 400 years history. Many shops of Daruma Dolls (symbol of good luck) will stand in row along the precinct of the temple of Iiizumi-Kannon and the area is alive until late at night.
http://www.kanagawa-kankou.or.jp/english/hot_news/0012_news.html#07
http://www.doconavi.com/today/calender/200112/syosai3.html

Kita-In Daruma Market in Kawagoe, Saitama, on January 3rd. 喜多院、川越

http://www.city.kawagoe.saitama.jp/kawa20e.htm
http://anemone.keisen.ac.jp/Internet_English/IE2b/Projects/SHIBUYANORIKO/kawagoe.htm

Konpira Shrine Festival, Iwaki City  金毘羅神社祭り、岩城市
This shrine is known as the home of the guardian deity for seafarers and fishermen. Its Daruma Fair attracts many visitors.
http://www.pref.fukushima.jp/kanko/k_hp_e/data_m/62253.html

 


Maebashi Daruma Market 前橋の初市

The First Market of the New Year with a history stretching back 360 years. The Daruma Market is held each year on January 9th. Thousands of people flock to the downtown area of Maebashi to purchase a daruma doll in hopes that it will bring prosperity.
http://www.jnto.go.jp/MI/eng/JCN/news6-1/news6-1.html

Miharu Daruma Fair 三春だるま市
Held on the 15th of January in Miharu-machi(三春町) near Koriyama this event dates back over 300 years. It features a Daruma, numerous roadside stands, and a drum meet (taiko taikai 太鼓大会). It will be held on the street in front of the Omachi Public Hall, 10 minutes by bus or a 20 minute walk from Miharu Station. The above and many other festivals are introduced on the following HP.
http://www.worldvillage.org/gy/gyold/14007.html
http://www.outdoorjapan.com/festivals-events/events-gunma.html (Selling Takashiba Daruma)

Mito Daruma Market, Honchoo 水戸のだるま市

http://sz.redbit.ne.jp/~windmill/cdrom02/05/20020098.htm

Shobu Town Daruma Fair, Saitama Pref. 菖蒲町だるま市
Held in early February.
http://www.town.shobu.saitama.jp/english/history/saiji/winter.html


Various HPs mentioning "Daruma Market".
Teaching material about World Religions, using Daruma to explain Buddhism. Recommendet for international understanding and world peace activities.
http://teacherlink.ed.usu.edu/tlresources/units/Byrnes-S2002/hunter/dahl.htm

Some general remarks about Daruma and its news during the season and elections.
http://homepage2.nifty.com/RieEzaki/small/daruma.html

Keiko Sakai, a Japanese student, is explaining about Takasaki and Daruma in Japanese and English. This is mentioned as an example of student activities on the subject of our Daruma.
http://www1.tcue.ac.jp/home1/english/students01/class14/101178/

On December 24, 2002 there was an article in the Japan Times about some traditional seasonal activities you might want to check out.
http://www.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/getarticle.pl5?fl20021224zg.htm


That is all for the year 2002. There will be more on this subject for the next season.
これで2002年のだるま市情報は終わります。また来年!

Just one more tip for your First Shrine Visit (hatsumoode 初詣).

The Temple Kawasaki Daishi (of course located in Kawasaki City) is always very busy during the season. The many shops lining the walk from the station to the temple are full of traditional fare and you can find some special Daruma items too. I will talk about this huge Temple and the nearby Chinese Garden in a separate story.
初詣には川崎大師はお勧めです。だるま市がありませんが仲見世で珍しいだるまたちがいっぱい。それは別 のお話にします。
See you at Part 2.

       We wish you all the best for the New Year!
           新年おめでとうございます!

Presented by Gabi Greve, GokuRakuAn, Japan, December 2002.
gokuraku@po.harenet.ne.jp


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